Dr Shane Keating has published a piece in The Conversation on the science of ocean waves.
The story of a wave: from wind-blown ripples to breaking on the beach describes how waves are formed and how their size, speed and power are affected by the strength of the wind and the shape and depth of the sea floor.
"Around 20 million Australians live within 50 kilometres of the coast. As summer temperatures soar, we flock to the ocean to splash, swim, surf, paddle, and plunge in the waves.
But where do those waves come from? How do they form, and why do they break? As it turns out, what we see at the shore is just the last few moments of an epic journey..."