Making workshops that repurpose plastic waste, and promote environmentalism and greater cultural understanding.

Making jewellery and wearable art from marine plastics presents a creative alternative that helps clean up Country, says Melinda Young from UNSW’s School of Art & Design.

The materials-based researcher has been teaching workshops with remote communities for more than ten years. Most recently, she travelled to Hope Vale in Far North Queensland on the lands of the Guugu Yimithirr Warra nation.

“You can make jewellery anywhere with just a few basic tools and techniques and innovative, thoughtful use of the materials at hand,” the low-tech craft maker says.

“Marine debris is already being used in art practice in North Queensland and the Torres Strait where marine plastics are an issue, but not in jewellery per se.”

“Using this sadly abundant matter can generate income but also raise awareness about this impactful environmental problem in the region.”

Hope Vale is the northern-most town on the eastern seaboard, a five-hour drive from Cairns. The Aboriginal community is surrounded by striking ochre, white and red sands, mountains, bushland and the Coral Sea.

The workshop was the culmination of five years of engagement. Ironically, right before her arrival, king tides swept the usually abundant plastics back out to sea.

“In a place where no-one ever buys plastic footwear, they just find it on the beach, suddenly plastics were scarce.”

Members of the Hope Vale Arts and Cultural Centre that hosted the workshop gleaned what they could and participants foraged among eclectic objects – “old shoes, thongs, lids, bits of rope” – to make their work, sharing knowledge and skills.

“I taught some basic jewellery-making techniques using wire, for example, to design and create custom earring hooks to improve wearability, and we explored other materials that can be used to extend the longevity of pieces created using traditional cultural techniques.”

“This is really important for being able to sell a product for what it’s worth. To realise its value and the skill of the maker. I also taught how to make cordage [string]. It was a hybrid mash up of making that evolved throughout the week.”

The final pieces were presented at the 2024 Cairns Indigenous Art Fair.

Ms Young’s research-based practice spans jewellery and intimately scaled textiles reflecting experiences of being in and understanding place and underpinned by complexities of place-based

making in contemporary Australia. She has exhibited extensively in Australia and internationally since 1997 with her pieces held in public collections and included in publications.

Her work explores materiality with an emphasis on found or repurposed materials. “I’m interested in how we can incorporate natural and unnatural materials from the local environment into jewellery; materials found on the surface of – rather than mined from – Country,” she says.

Becoming familiar with the materials, putting them aside to test ideas is important, she says. “The work requires careful planning – it’s surprising how quickly a piece of rubbish becomes very precious.”

In the months prior to workshops, she undertakes materials research, developing prototypes and samples suited to the available resources and likely skillsets. “At Hope Vale, most of the participants were Elders, so work needed to take into account limitations relating to manual dexterity and eyesight.”

All communities have different historical contexts; in some places, intergenerational and/or recent trauma also underpins the workshops, she says.

Hope Vale, for example, is a former mission site. In a break, Ms Young brought out her basketry, prompting one of the artists to race home to get hers. “Suddenly, we were talking this whole new language about what we could do with the materials,” she says.

“I handmake vessels and wearables using cordage and coiling, working with simple stitching techniques. In some places, there's a [similar] cultural tradition, but in others, the cultural tradition has been lost.”

In Hope Vale, artists are relearning techniques their grandmothers used by unmaking baskets, bags and other items. “That was a really emotional workshop. There's always a lot of big feelings and big emotions working on Country,” she says.

“The artists were really sad that there are no young people coming to the Art Centre. They're asking, is this all going to be lost again?”

Mapping material narratives through making

Ms Young first encountered marine plastics while in northeast Arnhem Land in 2017. She was working with Yolŋu artists at Buku-Larrnggay Mulka, Yirrkala as part of the Indigenous Jewellery Project, founded by curator Emily McCulloch Childs.

The project works with Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander-owned art centres across Australia, running workshops on Country with Indigenous jewellers. It helps develop and maintain Aboriginal jewellery and small object tradition and practice, both reinforcing connection to land and supporting contemporary craft practice.

Ms Young came across marine plastics while walking in this pristine location. Ocean currents carry plastics from further north and deposit them en masse in a corner of the beach.

“The Yolŋu artists’ practice focuses on materials from the land, so my research there concentrated on understanding the use and characteristics of traditional natural materials such as seeds, shells and bark,” she says.

“However, I saw the plastics as a viable material problem to be solved and brought a box back to my studio to experiment with.”

The plastics gathered in Yirrkala were used in her pieces featured in several exhibitions, including touring exhibition Seashape, curated by Sarah Heyward, and Contemporary Wearables ‘19 at Toowoomba Regional Art Gallery, who acquired the work for their collection.

Ms Young’s practice moved to integrating plastics found on her local shoreline on Dharawalland: “Here the plastics are uncommon and … reflective of this place – surf wax combs, lighters, fishing lures, domestic items”.

These materials formed the basis for Arcus/Adrift - together/alone (Pins for Mapping the Tideline), an installation of 187 brooches made with found plastics and driftwood. The hybrid wearables were exhibited at the Australian Design Centre, reflecting artists’ experiences of the COVID lockdowns.

For Contemporary Wearables/Seashape illustration: Melinda Young, Future Relic Neckpiece, 2018; Plastic marine debris, brass, handspun fishing line (photographer: M.Young) Collection of Toowoomba Regional Art Gallery

Making post-colonial artefacts and futuristic heirlooms

Further experimentations with marine debris and domestic plastics, exhibited in Craft ACT’s Speculation Nation: Making Utopia (2023), imagine a future that refuses both extractivism and cheap, disposable jewellery.

These works – made from ocean-tumbled coal, brick, washed-up fishing rope and plastic fragments – speak back to the transformation of place through colonisation, she says.

“I’m interested in the narratives inherent in these found objects, now recycled and reinvented. Making and adornment then become a means to recognise and repair, to clean up this post-colonial detritus and take it into the world with a new message of care.”

The works are a kind of futuristic heirloom. “They’re relics of intrusion, their materials have been collected at sites where the human and non-human come together, and where the manufactured or extracted material is in the process of being transformed by the ocean.”

Some work has minimal intervention with holes drilled through coal and brick and simply strung. “The work is, like Country, unstable and in a constant state of change.”

“Coal dust trickles onto the wearer, the bricks hang heavy and salt leaves traces on the body. The wearer becomes part of and feels the weight of the history of these objects.”

The plastic works, however, render the original artefacts unrecognisable: ropes fused with HDPE plastics from domestic packaging. “These necklaces rattle and clamour when worn, [they’re] loud and imposing reminders that it’s possible to rethink and reuse waste to create new heirlooms.”

An ongoing dialogue on Country

It takes time to develop close relationships and build language skills, but vast distances and remote locations remain obstacles to enduring relationships.

“It costs as much to get to Yirrkala as it does to go to Europe,” Ms Young says. “Not being able to continue to develop relationships, to have to walk away [due to funding and other restraints], that’s really tough. It’s a huge sadness.”

However, a making workshop with West Darling Arts, Broken Hill as part of the Baaka Project spawned an ongoing reciprocal mentorship with Barkindji artists Barbara Quayle and David Doyle.

Since then the artists have met many times and shared knowledge at UNSW Art & Design and in Broken Hill, and there is now a thriving community jewellery making hub in Broken Hill as legacy.

Both Mr Doyle and Ms Quayle have now taught workshops in community, exhibited and sold their work, including at Handwerk Gallery for Munich Jewellery Week and the Australian Design Centre (Mr Doyle) and through the Australian Museum Shop and at [Broken Hill Festival] Mundi Mundi Bash (Ms Quayle).

“It’s been so brilliant to work with Barb and Dave,” Ms Young says. “Taking the time to consider local resources, to learn and share skills on Country helps to better understand different cultural practices and environmental contexts, which are then shared through the wearing of jewellery.”